Friday, June 1, 2018


O.K. So we are in Burbayar. We enjoyed some time with the kids of the caretaker, Corina and Javier. They taught Charles how to play some video games on the computer.
A little later I spied a toad that I explained to Charles was slightly toxic and exuded a mild hallucinogen. He hesitated to touch it and refused to lick his fingers afterward. I did and saw lots of strange bugs and birds... but they were all real. No, really real. I guess I didn't lick him hard enough.
Charles was asleep when I came in to the Cabana and objected strongly when I tossed one of those toads into his bed. He thought it was severed foot at first. Tomorrow Inaki is coming to spend the night and ramrod the renovations. We'll stay one more night then off to the islands. Charles took a brief hike on one of the easy trails and seems happy to be here. For me it's heaven. So many memories of the place. It's a shame that this will likely be the last time I can visit with such privileges. It has rained in half hour spurts about 4 times but the temperature is lovely because of the altitude and no bug bites. We are on the continental divide of Panama and the area has it's own micro-climate. There is a reason rain is the first word in “rain forest.”

Tomorrow should be great, laid back, total relaxation etc. AND it's free! I'm so glad we didn't miss it.

Thursday, May 31, 2018


As we left Panama City we saw what Charles described as the sail hotel.  Turns out it is the former Trump tower. 
We  made (what was, for me,)a disappointingly easy trip to Inaki's place,Burbayar today. Paved road and partly  4 lane toll road.  What used to take about 4 hours was about 1.5 hours. Charles is struck by the beauty and tranquility of the place. We will be here tomorrow and leave on Saturday morning for the islands. All is well and all are well too. Here are a few shots of Burbayar.


Wednesday, May 30, 2018


Ha ha. Life is continuing to throw us curve balls. I spoke to Inaki this morning and he has leased Burbayar to Ancon Expeditions for 6 years. How inconsiderate! It is theirs in two days and under renovation now. We are meeting him at 1:00 but he says it is “complicado.” So, who knows where we head next. The expression in Panama is “todo es possible, nada es seguro.” Everything is possible but nothing is assured. We may stay another night here then head out tomorrow. There are several other places we want to visit but I'm extremely disappointed. Another adjustment. I'll either come back much more flexible or insane. I'm working through a cold I caught in Santiago. I know, I'm to old and delicate for this type of travel. Waaaa, again. We will come out of this stronger and better. I need to get that engraved on something. Maybe a tattoo. More photos to follow.

We met Inaki for a three hour lunch and he said that there is a lot of work going on at Burbayar, but we can stay a few days, just can't interfere with the work. He seems to be concerned about our comfort more than letting us be there. He called a Kuna friend of his and arranged a discounted stay in San Blas. We will leave Inaki's on Saturday and have 4 days 3 nights in San Blas. By no means enough.  Que vida dura. He also said that I looked like a gay Papa Noel.

Tuesday, May 29, 2018

May 29  Halfway into our trip and we just entered Panama last night.  We chose to skip Nicaragua due to unrest (but more specifically because of dozens of roadblocks).  Panama City is a prosperous, friendly place, and Bill has met people he knew 15 years ago.  Our spending has accelerated, but no more free beaches; we had to leave the truck and gear at Freddy's house.  He and his family have been tremendous help, providing a hurried trip to the airport and a place to park the beast.  Check out the buildings in the background; doesn't that look like the 'sail' hotel in Dubai?
Tomorrow we will rent a car and head to Inyaki's eco-lodge.  We have not heard from him in weeks, so hopefully he has returned to Panama.  Excellent museum on the construction of the canal.

Sunday, May 27, 2018


Well, we are reunited in Antigua despite my “google map estimated” 3 hour trip that took me about 8. Torrential rains, flooded roads, road closures and of course the market day stuff. Then there was a funeral that makes New Orleans look like rank amateurs. Tomorrow to Guat city and our flight to Panama. Charles is much more comfortable speaking Spanish now and I'm sure he'll be glad for the study. My toe is better after a week of flip flops only and I can walk as normally as I ever did in shoes. Freddy is letting us park in front of his house in a gated community so all should be fine. It's about 60 degrees here and this time tomorrow it will be stifling in Panama City. Life is rich and full and good.

Friday, May 25, 2018

May 25

I hit a wall yesterday.  La pared.  I was getting pretty good, spouting gibberish without regard to form or content.  Then my teacher introduced conjugation.  My enthusiasm and my confidence fell.  I graduated today, and I know I can carry on a conversation, but fluency is a fantasy.

This is a very pleasant place to live.  Established only 50 years after Columbus discovered America, Antigua retains its cobble stoned streets, inner courtyards and Mayan textile hawkers.  The city is dotted with churches big and small, most in some state of ruin or repair.  My own corner was idyllic, but I am ready to move on.